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Think Slow Food Marin-style, with a great wine list of west coast luminaries, and outstanding French and Italian bottles thrown in for good measure. And Lucire also recommends a night in any of Nick’s eccentric cabins on the water.īack in Inverness we had the distinct pleasure of a world-class meal at Saltwater, Luc Chamberland’s celebrated restaurant just across the street from the southern shoreline where the hull of a beached fishing boat can be viewed. A wonderful interlude resulting in 30 empty half-shells, after which we remembered the Walrus and the Carpenter: ‘They’d eaten every one.’ Chef Austin Perkins continues to tantalize guests with seafood offerings worthy of your attention. We stopped back into Nick’s Cove in Marshall, intending to put away a quick dozen Kumamotos, but we couldn’t stop, and next ordered half-dozens three different ways: Mornay, BBQ and Rockefeller, washed down with a delicious New Zealand sauvignon blanc. Nature watching, hiking, kayaking and small craft-sailing complement rich dining possibilities around Tomales Bay. The aftermath at Nick’s Cove in Marshall. The author takes in a snack at Osprey Peak. Highly recommended, but reserve early.Ībove, from top A tree in Osprey Peak. You’re guaranteed a deep sleep in a comfortable bed, a graceful awakening, not to mention a discreet and private refuge to return to after your day of activity. Their thrumming may be the only extraneous sound you hear beyond the whooshing of the pines close at hand. During your meal you can watch hundreds of hummingbirds zipping about the adjacent terrace sampling at suspended feeders. This tranquil retreat may appear austere, but the breakfast table (included in room rate) features a bevy of fresh cut fruits, house-made granola, and other specialties, ordered the night before from a detailed menu.
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The simplicity and elegance of the display and the gesture epitomize the property. On arrival, innkeeper Nancy set out a table in a clearing, steps from the front entrance, with a platter of local cheeses, condiments and bread, accented by seasonal fruits, accompanied by glasses of Beaulieu Coastal Cabernet.
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Quiet, elemental, totally comfortable, with every modern convenience, the property stands far away from the main road, yet accessible to all the local landmarks. We had the opportunity to sleep at Osprey Peak Bed & Breakfast, a three-room zen-style inn tucked into a cypress grove on a hillside just beyond the hamlet of Inverness. May they remain open, may we continue to profit from their bounty of the bay.Ībove The Drake’s Bay delta, and the dozen sampled there. A rare opportunity which may disappear, go while you can. For the slowest food available you must seek out the source, and Drake’s Bay was just that. We stood at the water’s edge, staring out at the pristine landscape, gobbling down the oysters, rich in the flavour of the sea, tender and gelatinous, garlanded with a dash of homemade mignonette. We made a visit to Drake’s Bay on the last day that their retail store was open, sampled a dozen of the half-shells opened before our very eyes, and exchanged a poignant hug with Nancy Lunny, a member of the family who owns the farm. Subsequently an advocacy group has filed yet another lawsuit with the US Supreme Court to protest this action. A strange coalition of environmentalists, the Sierra Club, politicians and moneyed newcomers in collusion with government bureaucracies managed to cancel the farm’s lease, a decision largely unpopular with residents, not to mention the end of livelihood for a dozen families, and to the disappointment of a cadre of restauranteurs and aficionados. Recently, well meaning activists forced the shutdown of the retail store at Inverness’s Drake’s Bay Oyster Farm, a fixture of the community for a half-century, renowned for succulent Pacifics, and a company which furnishes 40 per cent of all the oysters produced in the state of California. In the intervening years conditions have changed for the oysters, with a shrinking world population. Back in 2012, Lucire reported to readers on the little luxuries to be discovered in Tomales Bay, California, specifically the splendour of local oysters found there.